How beautiful the city!
How ugly!
There on the other side of the street
the mosque, the largest in Asia
a white structure on the street corner remembered from my youth.
Each time coming up from the subway
the stairs full of people
the big mosque reassures me
reminds me of India
Chhoti Masjid (the Little Mosque) to the right
on the road in Khurram Nagar (Happy Neighborhood)
telling me I’m almost home.
Here, sidewalks fill with tourists, locals,
young people, their friends.
It’s Ramadan, the mosque swallows people.
Men go through the front door into the large hall
women go to the roof
where families in the apartments surrounding the park
can watch them, miniature figures,
while they eat their rice or noodles at dinner.
All the people entering the mosque are foreigners.
The mosque at the corner of the park, the only park in the city
outside of the cul-de-sacs of stony land abutting the hills,
spaces too awkward to be transformed into commerce
or the peak where tourists enjoy the view
the feeling of rising over everything—of dominion.
*
How beautiful the city!
How ugly!
The building, twenty floors.
Inside its arcade, the Indian tailors.
The tout outside Indian too, I speak to him, I tell him (in Hindi)
to stop asking me to buy things, doesn’t he recognize me,
and in time he stops, smiles his greeting.
The people in the elevator speak Hindi
but they don’t speak to each other.
Then, once, in the elevator at night, two men are speaking.
“How are you doing, sir?” asks the younger, smaller man.
“Very well, very well, God is great,” replies the older man
watching the floor numbers illuminate in ascending order.
“God is always great!” replies the first.
Then, over the weekend, from the apartment next to ours,
songs, the banging of a drum, a bhajan party,
ecstatic melodies, the desire to leave the world.
*
How beautiful the city!
How ugly!
The trip from the airport too simple,
made easy for commerce.
The old airport famous for its landings,
suddenly buildings next to the wings, then the tarmac.
That city was dirty, two distinct cities.
Victoria Island. Then Kowloon
the buildings covered with filth:
the rain made them moist, the sea brought a salt brine
then the trash thrown from the windows
clinging to the sides of the buildings
congealing in the spaces between
the apartments like dirty titans emerging from the earth.
But this time, a silent train to Kowloon’s main station
then a transfer to a bus.
It’s too simple, a child could do it, a blind person,
an American tourist.
A man approaches.
He wears shorts and a T-shirt, a billionaire or no one.
He’s waiting for the bus too.
In the bus, he recounts his adventures.
He’s a call center manager in the Philippines.
From LA. He comes to Hong Kong whenever he can.
“The girls are always nice. When I go on vacation, I never sleep.
I have one night here. I’ll sleep on the plane home.”
A commercial city.
People come to buy
anything capable of being sold
without prudery.
*
How beautiful the city!
How ugly!
Before it was here, before the first buildings,
the first streets, it was just sweaty hills
surrounded by the sea, with islands and pirates in their boats
sheltering in coves, their boats so agile,
the big vessels, easy prey.
No one dreamed it up at once.
Not one person.
The city’s every fold, its every hot island.
On a rooftop balcony bar, a friend of a friend,
a businessman from Kuwait, says it’s a city without a soul,
not a place to live, it was this way from the start.
Who knows.
Now it’s a city of sanitized shopping malls.
A sign on the marble wall outside one reads,
“Do not stay here for any reason, for any amount of time.”
I have a picture to prove it.
*
How beautiful the city!
How ugly!
I go to the café to read.
A man comes in.
He approaches me. “Excuse me,” he says, in English.
He wants to talk. He teaches English in China.
He talks about his students, his girlfriend.
He’s almost old.
He has come to town to buy a certain iPad, I can’t help him
I don’t know, he gives me his business card.
*
How beautiful the city!
How ugly!
One Sunday, the park after sunset.
A little pond with a little fountain,
no animals, no toy boats, it’s not Paris.
In the beds, flowers in a botany lesson,
each plant with a sign announcing its origins
as though people would stop to learn the Latin
wanting to memorize these terms
for an upcoming test.
The park lamps give off weak light.
In the half-dark, servants and nannies sit on the sidewalks,
on the benches, in little groups
listening to their music, brought from afar
laughing quietly, imagining being back at home
with their loved ones, free of the city’s heaviness.
*
How beautiful the city!
How ugly!
What does it mean to know a person’s face?
A face changes all the time.
We recall others in a certain position
but reality isn’t like that.
“How old I look!” we say, when we look at a photo.
Then, one year removed, we think, “How young I looked!”
We don’t want to leave the world.
To describe the face of a city—
which city? which moment?
It moves, it breathes.
Beyond human control.
I look for the same buildings as before,
they’re there, but not the same.
Lying on the park bench in the late afternoon
a long weekend day alone
my friend at the Indian doctor’s posh house on the peak,
I watch the clouds perspire over the city
thinking of elsewhere
wanting the separation to be over
wanting another day to elapse
before memory can begin again.
w/Fatima
Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
July 2014
just before the protests